Dry Jack is the bold, aged cousin of Monterey Jack — firm, nutty, and perfect for grating. At Vella Cheese in Sonoma, it’s aged seven to ten months and distinguished by its signature black coating made from oil, black pepper, and unsweetened cocoa. The result is a hard, flavorful cheese reminiscent of Parmesan, yet uniquely Californian. It’s rennet-free and still crafted by the same family that created this recipe nearly a century ago.
While many California creameries were already making Dry Jack in the early 20th century, the Vella family became one of its most enduring stewards. Tom Vella and Celso Viviani first met while working at the Sonoma Mission Creamery — where Dry Jack was already being made — before striking out on their own to found Sonoma Valley Cheese, which later became Vella Cheese.
Their version of Dry Jack carried forward this proud California tradition, aged seven to ten months until it developed its signature nutty flavor and dark coating.
Vella Cheese Company is known for more than its products, though. Ig Vella, the much-beloved second-generation owner, is often remembered as “the godfather of artisan cheese.” He mentored and inspired a new generation of cheesemakers, including Rogue Creamery, Redwood Hill, and Laura Chenel.
While the original Monterey Jack was first made by Franciscan monks in Monterey, California, in the 18th century, there’s a colorful (and somewhat disputed) tale that a Scottish landowner named David Jacks began marketing it under his own name — giving us the “Monterey Jack” we know today.
So whether you love a classic, creamy Monterey Jack or an aged, pepper-coated Dry Jack, be sure to visit Vella Cheese Company — a sweet brick building just a couple of blocks off the Sonoma town square. Ask for a taste of their Dry Jack, and you’ll be sampling a living piece of California cheese history.
